Venice - the Italian gem on the water
St Mark's Square
Napoleon described St Mark's Square (Piazza San Marco) as the "finest drawing room in Europe" when he beheld this magnificent square, originally laid out in 12C on what was an island. The Venetians do, indeed, treat as a vast open-air salon, including it on the route of the passagiata, the Italian ritual of the evening stroll, and using it as a setting for their major ceremonies. The matched arcades which surround it on three sides, giving it that resemblance to an unroofed hall, were built over a period of four centuries. Its world-famous cafés, such as Florian, compete with each other with their resident orchestras - not altogether happily when two or three are playing at the same time.
Campanile
A soaring bell-tower is the dominant characteristic of many an Italian city; it even provides a word for the expression of civic patriotism - campanilismo. Venice's Campanile is the oldest and newest of the city's great structures. The oldest, for it was begun on Roman foundations in the 9C and achieved its final form between 1511 and 1514. The newset, because that tower collapsed around 10am on July 14 1902, miraculously without injuring anyone or damaging the nearby buildings. On the evening of the same day the City Council decreed that it should be rebuilt.
The present large structure, 99m (325 ft) high, was completed in 1912 and is an exact replica. All but one of the five great bells, the ringing of each of which signified a different activity of the day, had been broken and were recast, the gift of Pope Pius X. A spectacular view of the city can be had from the belfry. Sansovion's Logetta at the base of the tower (1537-49) was pieced together again from its fragments.
Almost opposite the Campanile is one of Venice's most popular tourist attractions, the Clock Tower (Trre dell'Orologio). Two life-sized figures of Moors strike the hours, as they have done ever since they were cast in 1497. The astronomical clock beneath them dates from the same period.
Piazzetta San Marco
This was the original harbour of the city, with water coming up to the base of the Campanile. The two great columns, one crowned by the Lion of St Mark, the other by St Theodore, were brought from the east in the 12 C. Both statues are made up from fragments of ancient statuary. That of Theodore is a modern copy, the original now being in the Dodges' Palace. State executions took place between the columns and Venetians regard it as bad luck to pass between them.
St Marc's Basilica
Built between 1063 and 1094, St Mark's Basilica (Basilica di San Marco) is the third church on the site, and it is the heart and soul of Venice. It has been a cathedral only since 1807. Until then it was, simply, the Dodges' Chapel, built less for religious purposes, one feels, than to show the splendour and ruthless power of the republic. The most famous feature, the four life-sized bronze horses on the terrace above the doorways, was looted from Constantinople in 1204. Possibly either Greek or Roman (4C AD) work, the horses became so much associated with Venice that Napoleon removed them to Paris when he conquered the city; those on the terrace are copies - the originals are housed in the Marciano Museum.
Dodges' Palace
Nothing better illustrates the immense self-confidence of the Venetians than the fct that the Dodges' Palace (palazzo Ducale) is indedd a palace, not a castle. In all other Italian cities, even Rome, the medieval or Renaissance seat of government is heavily fortified - as much against the citizens as against outside enemies. The Venetians were confident that no enemy can penetrate their lagoon and threaten their Great Council and no citizen would dream of opposing it. The Dodges' palace is probably the world's best secular example of that Gothic style usually reserved for churches.
Like its immediate neighbour the basilica, the Dodges' Palace is the third building on the site. The first building, erected in the turbulence of the 9C, was actually a fortified castle complete with drawbridge. This, and its successor were destroyed by fire. The purpose of the present building, commenced in 1345, was to provide a worthy setting for the supreme governing body not only of the city but of the seaborne empire Venice had acquired. It was the ceremonial seat of the dodges, but also of the various interlocking councils which constituted the government as well as the law courts - and it contained the prison. The two more great fires, in 1574 and 1577, meant that most of the present-day interior decoration is post-16C.
The palace is double-fronted, one facade facing the laggon, the other - the Piazzetta. Entrance is on the Piazzetta side through the richly decorated Paper gate (Porta della Carta), so called because decrees were posted there. The group above the door, showing Dodge Foscari(1423-57) kneeling before the Lion of St Mark, is a 19C copy placed there in 1885. The original was destroyed by Napoleon's men. The gate leads through the Foscari porch and arch, with its cluster of statues, into the vast courtyeard, flanked on the left by the bulk of the basilica. Immediately ahead is one Giants' Staircase (Scala dei Giganti), the ceremonial entrance into the palace guarded by Sansovion's colossal statues of Mercury and Neptune (1566).
To
Santa Maria della Salute
After the Campanile and St Mark's, this great church on its prominent site is probably the most photographed building in the city. The church was dedicated to Our Lady of Salvation in thanksgiving for the ending of disastrous plague which carried off a third of the population in 1630.
The architect was 26-year old Baldassarre Longhena, who adopted an entirely new form, heavy with symbolism: as he put it, "a virgin work...strange., worthy and beautiful, in shape of a round "machine" such as had never before been seen or invented." Built on a raised platform which is supported by more than a million close-packed wooden piles, it is in the form of an octagon, symbolizing Mary's star, with a single immense cupola that is her crown.
The interior is a treasure-house of statuary and paintings, among them one of Titian's earliest works, portraying four saints (1511).
Rialto Bridge and Ca'd'Oro
Rialto Bridge (Ponte di Rialto) dates from the 16C. The bridge is lined on either side with shops and provides a world-famous view of the Grand Canal. Varpaccio's painting Miracle of the True Cross (c. 1550) shows that the previous wooden bridge had a drawbridge in the middle to allow the passage of ships.
The most famous palace on the Canal is the Ca'd'Oro. There is uncertainty about the orogins of its name. One suggestion is that its name "Golden House" is derived from the rich gilding which once adorned the facade. An alternative suggestion is that its name refers to the family Doro which once lived there. Built between 1421 and 1440, it is, in fact, unfinished, for it was intended to have two flanking wings. It has a particularly fine courtyard, with the characteristic Venetian pozzo (well). The building now houses the Franchetti Gallery.
Museums and Galleries
- Academy of Fine Arts
- Franchetti Gallery
- Guggenheim Collection: concentrates on modern art including the work of Chagall, Giacometti, Klee and Picasso
- Venice in the 18C Museum
- Libreria Vecchia
- Correr Museum: illustrates Venice's history
- Museum of Naval History
- Great School of St Rock
Murano
This is virtually a miniature Venice, complete with its own Grand Canal. It had its own system of government, all but independent of the mother city, and its own mint. In the 16C it was a favoured resort of wealthy Venetians who wanted green fields and fresh air near their homes. There was a population of 30,000 and no fewer that 17 churches. Today the population has dwindled to a handful and there are only two churches, but one of them dedicated to Santi Maria e Donato, is worth the journey. Although founded in the 7C, it was substantially rebuilt in the 12C and an almost unspoiled example of Venetian Byzantine architecture. Its mosaic floor, created around 1141, is even more splendid than St Mark's.
The island's chief glory, and the reason for its relative independence, is its world-famous glass industry, removed from Venice proper in 1291 because of the danger of fire. The glass-makers enjoyed many privileges but were forbidden to leave Venice in case they took their vital trade secrets with them. There is an important Glass Museum (Museo di Arte Vetratia) housed in 16C palace. Its 4,000-odd exhibits include Roman, Egyptian and Phoenician work.
Top of Page
Burano
This lively little island, with its brilliantly painted houses, has come back to life after many years in the industrial doldrums. Fishing is its major industry but its lace-making - craft for which it was famous for centuries - has been revived and contributes substantially to its prosperity.
Top of Page
Torcello
The island was the first to be occupied by the refugees of the 7C and even had its own bishopric, established in 638. Its cathedral, begun in 639 and rebuilt in 1008, is the oldest building on all islands of the laggon. The facade is 9C but most of the present structure was built in the early 11C. The interior has all the solemnity and austerity of the Byzantine tradition, and is built in a delicate green-grey marble which contrasts with the rich marble mosaics. The most important mosaic is the Final Judgement, on the West wall. The dome of the apse has a magnificent 12C mosaic of the Madonna and Child. Other mosaics were inspired by the 6C examples in Ravenna.
Food and Drink
Non arat, non seminat, non vidimat, the mainlanders mocked: "They don't plough, sow or make wine." Nevertheless, Venetians eat and drink spectacularly well. The Veneto region produces many famous wines: among the whites, try Soave, Pinot Grigio and sparkling Prosecco; notable reds include Valpolicella, Bardolion and sumptuous Amarone.
Naturally, seafood is abundant and good. Look for risotto al mare (rice with seafood) or risotto nero (with squid) among the wealth of fish dishes. Meat-eater will enjoy carpaccio (thin raw beef, a Venetian invention) and fegato all veneziana (liver and onions). Venetians have a cornucopia to choose from. A simple Venetian dish is Risi e bisi (rice with peas).
Venice can be the most expansive place to eat in Italy. The nearer you are to St Mark's Square the more you will pay - anything up to 12,500 lire ($8) for a cup of coffee in Piazza itself. For that, however, you are enjoying a unique experience, to the accompaniment of an excellent orchestra. But most restaurants will have a menu turistico, a fixed-price meal consisting of a first and second course and a couple of glasses of wine. Resonably cheap is the tavola calda ("hot table"), where you sit up at a bar and there is a limited but good menu. The now universal pizza is a good standby, with a glass of wine. A variety of famous Venetian tramezzini (sandwiches filled with tuna, asparagus, eggs, zucchini, etc) are served at most bars.
If on a budget, it is worthwhile building up a picnic for lunch and spending more in the evening. Grocers (alimentari) stock an astonishing range of pickled foods including such delicacies as anchovies (acciughe), artichoke hearts (carciofi) and a vast range of fingi. The market stalls near the Rialto will provide everything you could possibly need for a splendid picnic.
Shopping
Shopping, like eating, is extremely expensive - but also can be extremely good value, for the tradition of the individual Venetian craftsman is still flourising, despite the ocean of tourist junk. Again, as with food, anything bought in and around St Mark's costs more.
General shopping is concentrated in the rather unattractive region known as Merceria, a chain of streets running from the Torre dell'Orologio. Many of the open-air markets have stalls selling everything from shoes to antiques. Ordinary domestic products will be priced, but for antiques and the like it is up to you to decide what you really want to pay.
Pre-eminent among local products is, of course, the world-famous and unique glass industry, running out everything from exquisite wine-glasses to grotesque ornaments. If time permits it is worthwhile going to Murano, the heart of the industry, where you can actually see the process and there is a greater range of price and choice. It is inadvisable to accept any tout's offer of a "free trip" to the island, which will be anything but free when you arrive there.
Carnival masks are also unique to Venice. Dating back to the 17C, the designs are bizzare and usually very eye-catching. They have become so popular that they are now mass-produced, but you can still find well-designed hand-crafted masks at a price.
Lace, too, is a uniquely Venetian product, but it needs an expert eye to detect the difference between machine-made and handmade lace. If you are making a trip to the islands and really want local stuff it is worthwhile shopping in Burano where hand-crafted items can be easily found.
Although not cheap, Venice also offers a good range of well-made high quality looking glasses.
Entertainment and Nightlife
There is little in the way of conventional nightlife in Venice apart from several cinemas and some lively bars. If you are a music lover, however, this is your city. It was after all, the home of two of Italy's great composers: Monteverdi was a director of the choir at St Mark's and Vivaldi conducted the choir of a girls' orphanage, the Ospedale delle Pieta. This was no ordinary orphanage, for the girls entire training was in music.
In the 18C, a French visitor remarked: "Not a single evening goes by without a concert somewhere. You cannot realize how crazy the city is about this art." And it still is. In addition, visitors accustomed to the hair-rising prices for opera in Britain and North America are in for a pleasant surprise. A good seat can be had for 25,000 lire ($16.50) or less.
Doyen of all the theaters was the opera house, appropriately called La Fenice (Phoenex), for it was rebuilt after being burned down in 1831. Verdi's "La Traviata" had its premiere here in 1853. Tragically, it was destroyed again by fire in January 1996, but rebuilding is planned. The Teatro Goldoni puts on a variety of plays, in addition to Goldoni's (his house in the Calle dei Nomboli is now a museum), and also has music seasons. Concerts are often given in the larger churches: check for programme details and venues in a tourist office.
A goal for most American visitors is now legendary Harry's Bar, Ernest Hemingway's watering hole (in the Calle Vallaresso, near the tourist office). You will need a well-filled wallet, and perhaps one visit to this crowded, noisy bar will be enough, but it is now as much a part of Venice as the Campanile. The bar was founded in 1931 by a bartender, Giuseppe Cipriani. Try his own invention, a mixture of champagne and peach juice - the Bellinni.
Carnival in Venice
When Carnival first began it was celebrated from December 26 and reached its climax the day before Ash Wednesday, also known as "Mardi Gras". During the period of Carnival it seems that every excess was permitted and the fact that everyone wore masks seemed to abolish all social division. All the campi were thronged with people intent on partying and carousing, singing, dancing and playing games. The most common costume (the bautta) was composed of a black silk hood, a lace cape, a voluminous cloak (the tabarro), and a three-cornered hat and a white mask that completely covered the wearer's face. This allowed revelers to go around the city incognito. It was useful to go to casini, places where you could play games of chance. Since 1980 the celebration of Carnival in Venice has gained popularity. People come from the world over to attend private and public masked balls and masked revelers of all ages invade the campi where music and dancing continues nearly day and night. Theatrical performances and an array of ancient games are organized for the amusement of Venetians and visitors alike.
Venetian Gondollas
The gondola is the most well-known boat in the world: even people who have never been to Venice can immediately recognize its unique shape, the metal bow decoration (fero ) and for the distinctive Venetian rowing style (voga alla veneziana).
Like all the other lagoon boats the gondola has a flat bottom which allows it to float in very shallow water. The most important characteristic of the gondola is its longitudinal asymmetry: the keel is not straight but curves towards the right so that the gondola lists to the right. This counterbalances the push of the single oar which would tend to direct the boat to the left.
But how was the gondola ‘born’? There was no inventor nor designer: the boat that we see gliding in the Venetian canals was developed through the centuries with gradual and imperceptible variations.
Some curious facts: the gondola weighs about 400 kg, is built using eight different types of wood; the degree of curvature is based on the weight of the gondolier. Before being used exclusively for tourism, the gondola made use of a removable cabin called a felse for use in the winter or during the night. It came with a door and sliding windows with Venetian blinds and curtains, a mirror and a charcoal burner. The felse was used to protect the passengers from the cold and from prying eyes.
Various other boats belong to the gondola family, these include:
- The Gondolino da regata: a fast boat which is difficult to row, it is used exclusively in the Historic Regatta (Regata Storica). The gondolino made its first appearance (in its modern form) in 1825. The shape of the gondolino is based on that of the gondola, and its current measurements are: overall length 10.5 m, overall width 1.1 m, keel width 0.65 m, height at mid-length 0.36 m, weight approx. 160 kg.
- Barcheta a coa de gambaro: a particular type of gondola with the bow stem stretched forwards and upper sides flared outwards. Instead of the normal metal bow decoration (fero) it had a downward-pointing metal curl. The only example of a boat of this kind can be seen at the Maritime Museum (Museo Storico Navale) in Venice.
- Barcheta a massoche: a variation of the classic gondola of which there is only one example conserved at the Museo Storico Navale in Venice. It was less slender and less asymmetrical than the better-known gondola, and was used to transport passengers across the lagoon, for postal services, hospitals, funerals, prisons, etc. It was called the barcheta a massoche (massoche means mallet) due to the shape of its extremities. It was also called barcheta da parada, gondola lagunar, barcheta da fresco. Now barcheta a massoche refers to the gondola ferries which cross the Grand Canal.
- Mussin: boat for two or four oars which was very light, similar to the gondolino but with the bow boom inclined forwards without the metal decoration (fero). Until a few years ago, it was used as the leading boat in the Regata Storica.
- Disdotona: boat for processions with eighteen (disdoto in Venetian dialect) oarsmen from which it derives its name. The first disdotona was built in 1903, the type used today in 1973. It is 18 m long and can be taken apart into three sections for ease of storage and transport.